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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred names. Yet, nestled high among these food titans is a simple salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” states the family member, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest shop securing such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its earlier character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.